Power after head replacement

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Re: Power after head replacement

Unread postby scott.edwards » Wed Jun 25, 2014 9:04 am

Hi Fred,

These things are old now... so my recommendation to anyone interested in discussing this is...... replace everything rubber as a base start. Unfortunately, there is a lot of rubber in an auto, from all those sealing o-rings to boots, to brake lines to suspension parts. The reasoning; they are all failing, and mostly because of the rubber. If the transmission is being cooked, and the fluid never changed, this is another story.

Once the rubber bits have been refreshed, there is no reason to think failure.... or is there? OK, some electrical parts can fail..... sure, but they are still available, and don't usually leave you stranded...unless it's something like a starter or a battery. The starter is still available, think 89 eagle medallion, and batteries are no issue..think dual switch.... it's pretty rare for both to head south at the same time. Relays fail, keep a spare on board, same as fuses. The rest would most likely be repairable on the road.

If you keep your fluids changed, do not overload the RV, and look after the things that make noise when they tell you they are failing, you should be able to go just about anywhere with these machines.

2 examples are John Sargent and Dave Vail (hope I got your last name right Dave). John's is a stock unit, and takes him from Arizona to Boston...with minor issues.... (all of which were rubber related by the way) , and comfortably, without breaking the bank with good fuel economy. Dave travels extensively with his, as you can read in the news letters. His is a converted unit, but the same principals apply..... newer drivetrain, newer rubber bits, fluids maintained. Another example is Larry Schoppe. He used to yearly travel from Ohio to Texas..... how many times did you hear about him breaking down? Most of these machines need breakdown trial runs. If you do a few trial runs before the big ones, you'll easily find a lot of the small things that need work, before they become a problem on the big tour.

So Fred, change out what you can, including the brake flex lines, and the gas lines....all of them (maybe not the filler unless you destroy it removing the tank) the vacuum lines, and start replacing the coolant lines, especially the exposed ones and the ones at the rear by the coach heater, and you should be good to go.

By the way, I am not advocating changing the 3 main rad hoses, as they were made of really very good quality materials, and may outlive the coach. It's all the small 5/8" or so hoses that fail at the clamps. Sometimes you can just trim and re-clamp, others need replacing, like the ones next to the engine.

Fred, do this, and there is no reason why you cannot drive your machine anywhere.

We are a small, yet passionate group. If we all help each other, it is amazing what we can do together.

Cheers, Scott




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