Motor-Aide Bleeding / Polarity :?:

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Motor-Aide Bleeding / Polarity :?:

Unread postby Phasar » Tue Dec 19, 2017 9:35 am

87' Buick 3800 II conversion

Recently replaced my corroded motor-aide lines running to the rear.

Does anyone know if there is a polarity (so to speak) with 2 the motor-aide coolant lines?

Having a hard time bleeding the system. Added about 1.5 gallons more of coolant so far. Parked nose up on an incline. (have the manual also)

Coolant capacity with and without motor-aide ?

Front dash heater working, still no heat to the rear.

Any advice appreciated.
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Re: Motor-Aide Bleeding / Polarity :?:

Unread postby Phasar » Fri Dec 22, 2017 10:42 pm

Swapped the hoses, no difference. (polarity doesn't seem to matter) Coolant is getting to the rear of the coach, but not flowing up into the rear heater etc.. hard to believe there's a blockage inside the coach, however will investigate that next. Both metal lines inside ice cold even with engine up to temp.
Frustrating.

Perhaps others have discovered this already, however if you want to minimize the mess when opening the bleeder valve on the side of the heater core, if you can remove the rubber drain tube under the heater fan shroud and place it over the side bleeder after it's open and run the other end into a bucket or container to save your coolant to reuse later.
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Re: Motor-Aide Bleeding / Polarity :?:

Unread postby Wanderer » Sat Dec 23, 2017 4:36 am

Are you opening the bleeder valve on the rear heater while the front heater is OFF?


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Lou
Life is hard by the yard; but by the inch it’s a cinch.
1990 Winnebago LeSharo "Wanderer"
Chrysler 3.3L Extended roof
Delray Beach Fl
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Re: Motor-Aide Bleeding / Polarity :?:

Unread postby Phasar » Sat Jan 13, 2018 4:18 pm

Fixed and nice and toasty again! There WAS a blockage, and it was my own fault. I used 1/2" cpvc section to go thru the floor. Rest used 5/8" heater hose for couplers and front to rear. And doubled clamped all connections.

I used too much pipe dope on the cpvc and it blocked the flow on one of the sides of the cpvc section.

Wanderer, appreciate the reply. Did not know there is a bleeder at the rear heater. Where exactly is that? edit: there isn't a rear bleeder that I can see, misread the post, they just mean open up the "valve" on the rear heater so coolant flows thru the rear heater (which can be bypassed) Can get too hot back there in hot climates if valve open and coolant is flowing thru it even with the rear fan off.

I start off by bleeding at the thermostat housing bleeder screw on top of the engine ( 3800 conversion) then bleed out the side of the heater core (stock lesharo) don't have to have front end elevated etc.. not really necessary.

All good now, and a dumb mistake on my part. Not much room for error with 1/2" pipe.

As far as using cpvc, rated at 180 degrees @ 100 psi. Cooling system under normal operation is about 15-30 psi. (guessing) So I've theorized that it can handle the higher temps here. Plus on a previous lesharo I did the exact same thing as far as the cpvc section with no problems whatsoever.

Reason I didn't go with black or galvanized pipe was wanted to use the stock pipe hangers front to rear and didn't want to drill out bigger holes in the floor. Plus pipe had 45 degree fittings, that wouldn't have followed the stock hangers. Anyway that's how I did it.

I love the motor-aide feature, rear heat while driving and hot water in 10-15 min while driving or even just idling for showers etc... worth the effort to fix it for sure.
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